Welcome to something new, a Treadlestitches tutorial on quilting by the block.
If you follow this blog, you know that I do a lot of quilt-as-you-go. This just means I quilt my quilts in sections, rather than as one whole unit. These techniques have been around a long time, at least a hundred years, and can be done by hand or by machine. I choose to quilt my sections by machine.
The technique I'm showing here requires some hand work, as do most quilt as you go methods. This particular tutorial shows how I quilt by the block on a quilt with sashing between the blocks.
Here's why I quilt this way.
1. It's much easier to quilt something small than something big. I don't have to worry about how much throat space my domestic sewing machine has (or doesn't have).
2. I can easily turn the block while I'm quilting, to do any sort of design I like. Many of my quilts are reproductions, and quilt as you go makes it possible to do old fashioned outline quilting or stitch in the ditch, or even fancy motifs. (Not too fancy--I don't free motion quilt. I'm using my Pfaff's built-in walking foot.)
3. Quilting by the block is much easier on me physically than quilting a large quilt.
So that's the why! Now for the how.
Step One: Make quilt blocks. (No problem!) Size doesn't matter, but larger blocks will be a more efficient use of materials. My blocks in this tutorial are 12 in. finished.
Step Two: Decide on a sashing fabric, and a width for it. My sashes in this example are 2 in wide finished.
Step Three: Cutting.
A. Cut the sashings and cornerstones from your preferred fabrics, just as you would do for any other quilting method. In this example, I cut my sashings 2.5 in. wide and 12.5 in. long. The cornerstones are 2.5 in. squares.
B. Cut the batting. When I quilt these blocks, I will be quilting each block plus one sashing as one unit. I cut the batting the finished size of the unit. In this case, that's 12 in. x 14 in. The exception is the last block in each row, which does not have a sashing. I cut a 12 in. square of batting for that unit.
I don't want the batting to be caught in the seam, because of the thickness it causes. This is why I cut it to the finished size of the unit.
Batting scraps are ideal for this method. Long strips of batting will be needed for the sashing rows between the block rows, as well as the borders. We will cut that later.
C. Cut the backing. More backing is needed for this method than is used if the quilt is quilted in one piece.
This is where my way differs a little from other instructions. I cut the backing sections for most of the blocks 14.5 in. wide (exactly what you need for a 12 in. finished block and a 2 in. finished sashing), but I cut them 15.5 in. long. This makes what I call a "shirt tail".
Here's the backing, right side up.
Backing pieces for the last block in each row are cut 12.5 in. wide and 15.5 in. long.
Step Four: Sewing Sashings
In each of my rows, there are five blocks and four sashing strips. Before I start quilting, I sew a sashing strip to each block in the row, except for the last block. I do NOT join anything else together. I end up with a pile that looks something like this:
I make the sashing and cornerstone rows just the same as I would do for any other quilt.
Step Five: Layering
I lay the backing piece wrong side up, and place the batting piece on top of it.
It's hard to see in this photo, but the batting is narrower than the backing. (Remember, I'm trying to keep the batting out of the seam.) The extra backing below the batting is the "shirt tail". This will become the backing for the sashing row later on. (Don't worry about this now.)
The block plus sashing unit is ready to go on top, and the first block in the row is ready to quilt!
Step Six: Quilting
Now for the fun part! Quilt the first block in the row anyway you like. You can baste it first if you like, with pins or spray. Sometimes I just press it well and go straight to quilting. Warning: Do NOT baste any other quilt blocks in the row yet!!
Here's another warning: You can quilt up to the edge of the BLOCKS, but
do not quilt the right edge of the sashing, where my little scissors are pointing. This must remain loose to attach the next unit.
To attach the next block-sashing unit:
Here's what the first unit looks like, with the sashing edge pulled back. You can see all 3 layers--sashing, batting, and backing.
I sew the sashing from Block #1 to Block #2, raw edge to raw edge. I do not catch anything else in the seam.
I press the seam. Just a reminder, the second block is not quilted yet.
Here's what it looks like on the back. The next step is to sew the backing for Block #2 to the backing from Block #1.
Again, there are only two layers to this seam--the backing from Block #1 and the backing from Block #2. (By the way, I'm sewing this seam on my treadle. All the quilting is happening on the Pfaff.)
This is what it looks like opened up. Block #2 is on the left, folded out of the way. Now it's time to lay in the batting for Block #2.
Like this!
And then smooth over Block #2, which is now ready for basting and quilting.
This is what it looks like on the back. I press both front and back to make sure everything is smooth and lying flat.
Now I can quilt the first sashing. For this quilt, I'm running a line of serpentine stitch about a quarter inch from the seam, where my little scissors are pointing. You can also see I've gotten ahead of myself and quilted the second block.
From here on out, you just repeat these steps.
1. Quilt the block, leaving the sashing unquilted.
2. Attach the next block to the front only.
3. Attach the backing for the next block to the back only.
4. Press the seams.
5. Lay in the batting.
6. Baste (if desired).
7. Quilt the block.
When you finish the row, all the blocks and sashings will be quilted, and there will have been no hand work at all. (It's coming! But not yet.)
Adding the Sashing Row
The last thing to do to complete the row is to add the sashing row to it. In this example, I have six rows, but will only be adding sashing rows to five of them.
In this photo, I have laid the sashing and cornerstones row right sides down against the quilted row, and pinned it. Note the "shirt tail" backing fabric on the far right. It needs to lay there just like that.
I am sewing through 4 layers here--the 3 layers of the quilt plus 1 layer of sashing row.
After the row is sewn, I press the seam away from the blocks. Did you notice the edge of the shirt tail extending beyond the sashing row? It is larger on purpose.
Do Not Quilt the Sashing Row Yet!!!
Part Two of this tutorial will cover sewing the rows together (with some dreaded hand work) and adding borders.
Thank you for reading through this! I hope it makes sense. I am far from a pro at writing instructions! If there is anything you have a question about, please ask in the comments and I'll address it.
Happy Quilting!
Sylvia@Treadlestitches
